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InFocus made the Vision series cameras that supported this type of focus stacking: www.infocus.com/expert_ed_docs/in-outfocus-vision-series-digital-focus-stacking-trigger-through-a-wide-angle-lens
From memory, you increase the amount of light that is reflected by the focus glass as you close to the focus point, which in turn increases the extent to which the in-focus images overlap. The detector gets 'blinded' by the brightest image. The flash isn't needed at close focus since no such thing as (full-power) flash is really needed. And putting some magenta gel (or grey) or similar on the front element to increase the reflectance will get the separation between frames done in the software. Focus stacking is best when the off-axis field of view is very large. While the camera has the ability to read the distance from each spot on the focus glass to the camera sensor, it is computationally expensive, so Olympus has started using the depth measurement as a proxy for distance. From the depth measurement it can infer the correct distance and then the software can focus sequentially on each of the spots on the focus tube. While it's a tricky thing to put into practice, in theory it's quite simple.
Suggestion: The default setting of WPH:1 usually works for most models of 5D Mark III and most versions of DSLR lenses. In general, the value of WPH is higher for slower lenses and from my experience, it is nearly impossible to get usable results with a lens that has a WPH of 2 or 3 and using a higher number of shots for stacking. d2c66b5586